Installation gypsum cardboard ceiling is done when the existing surface of the ceiling has unevenness, permanent appearing crack or for decorative interior decoration.
For the installation of drywall ceiling we will need some tools and materials, which we will surely tell in our step-by-step instructions for installing a drywall ceiling.
First of all, decide on the design of the ceiling, our photo gallery will help you in this, there you will definitely find the right solution on the architecture of construction.
In this task, it is necessary to map the horizontal lines along the perimeter walls, on which the starting profile will be installed. To solve this task, a hose water level is required, the length of the hose should be sufficient to overcome the distance between the corners of the room diagonally. The hose should be filled with water to zero marks in the hose measuring hoses. Then, stepping back from the overlapping surface some distance, which is determined by the design and purpose of the plasterboard ceiling, it is necessary to spread the flasks to different angles of the room and note on the wall of the point where there will be a mirror of water in both vessels. The next step is to put the same points in the rest corners. And one of the flasks is important to keep at one point, as a control. At the subsequent definition of points of a marking, a mirror of water in the first, The control flask must coincide with the marked first point.
Thus, points of the horizontal plane are marked out so that the gypsum plasterboard ceiling is strictly horizontal and flat.
With the help of a paint string and powder color, beat the lines of contours. To do this, grate the cord with a color, the color of which must be contrast with the color of the surface of the wall, pull it along the wall, applying the ends to the points marked earlier, then pull the middle cord from the wall and let go so that the cord, hitting the wall, left a trace of the line connecting the support points of the horizontal plane. Thus, image, connect all the points by drawing the perimeter of the room.
В местах, где следующий уровень, будет соединяться со стеной, следует сделать разметку горизонталей для монтажа стартовых профилей по вышеизложенному методу.
The next step in installing a drywall ceiling will be the installation of the start profiles. Starting profiles have standard sizes and shapes. The length of the starting profile for plasterboard should be such that it overlaps the length of the wall on which it will be installed, otherwise it will be necessary use connectors. The exception is when the wall is longer than any standard profile size.
In the wall of the starting profile, just in the middle of the wall, make holes with a diameter of 6-8 mm, depending on the choice of fasteners, in increments of 250-300 mm. As a rule, for fixing the starting profile to the wall, plastic dowels with a screw 80-100 mm in length and with a diameter 6 mm.
Prepare a profile of the appropriate length so that it is the length of the entire wall. You can trim the profile with a sanding machine. Increase profile You can use special or self-made longitudinal profile connectors, fixing them with screws. On the outer surface of the back Starting profile, glue the damper tape for soundproofing from the wall.
Insert a profile with holes to the line on the wall so that the line is visible in the center of the holes, and mark the points of the holes, simply circling them in pencil on the wall.
Now you can drill holes in the wall, a drill bit on concrete of the appropriate diameter, not a depth that will be equal to the length dowels, and insert the dowels into the holes. If the base is unstable, then it is better to strengthen it with a deeply penetrating primer, and also plant dowel on glue or sealant.
It remains to attach the profile to the wall by aligning the holes on the profile with the dowels installed and secure the profile by screwing the screws in spacer dowels.
In the places where the subsequent levels of the ceiling adjoin the walls, it is necessary to perform the installation of the starting profiles using the procedure described above.
Direct suspension is designed to hold the mass of the suspended ceiling so that the plane of the structure remains flat and does not collapse under its own weight, as well as due to excessive deformation of drywall in the seams. In any case, thanks to the use of direct hangers, the construction The skeleton of the ceiling gets stiff and stable.
The length of straight hangers can be different, it is necessary to select it taking into account the indentation of the suspended ceiling from the main concrete floor. The direct suspension in the established position is U-shaped and the vertical segments must reach the set in the starting profile guide profiles.
Suspensions are installed on the main ceiling at a frequency not exceeding 600 mm along and across the ceiling. Standard cell of four hanging has dimensions of 625x1200mm, based on the size of the sheet, with the transverse laying of drywall, when the sheet lies across the carriers guide profiles (whole, from wall to wall) and 600x1250mm for longitudinal laying of gypsum board with respect to bearing guide profiles.
It is necessary to mark the fixing points of the suspensions with a specified frequency. To do this, you can use the usual five-meter metal tape measure. First you need to mark the points on the bottom of the ceiling along the room with the selected longitudinal frequency, then make a mirror marks on the opposite side, and mark points in the transverse direction with the selected transverse frequency. Connecting the opposite points with the help of a paint string along and across, we obtain a grid, at the intersections of which it is necessary to install the suspensions. Plan the grid so that the outermost suspensions are at the same distance from the wall, which may be smaller than between the suspensions in this direction.
Further, if the concrete floor is overlapped, it is necessary to drill the holes for the ceiling driven anchor wedges with a diameter of 6mm * and a depth of 60mm * (under size of the anchor-wedge) at the intersection of lines. The suspension must be bent with the letter P and inserting the anchor into the central hole, set. When the anchor wedge is completely in the hole, hammer its spacer tab with the hammer until it stops. The Wedge will open inside the hole and tightly fix the suspension on the concrete floor.
For fastening of direct suspensions to wooden overlappings, it is possible to use fastening by long wood screws which are inserted in side ears of suspensions, two on the suspension. Also this method is used for vertical mounting of hangers on the wall, only instead of screws On wood use plastic dowels with a screw for brick clutches.
The guiding ceiling profiles are standard sizes and several standard lengths. Bearing integral profiles (which are attached to suspension), as a rule, installed in a short section of the ceiling. If the width of the room is more than 4 m, then load the profiles with help special or self-made profile connectors.
The supporting guide profiles are installed in the starting opposite profiles, repeating the lines that are drawn for fastening hangers, that is, the profile should be exactly under a number of suspensions.
In the middle of the starting profiles, which are parallel to the bearing guide profiles, fasten the line and pull it across the profiles, so that its level coincides with the bottom wall of the starting profile. Then, leveling along the line, fix the profiles with screws to the hangers for the sides. Self-tapping screws are used in this case in a small size and screwed into the profile edge by means of a suitable screw hole on the suspension. Start better with the central hangers and move forward from the center to the walls in turn. Using the same line, you can control and horizontal position of the profile in the transverse direction when fastening it to the suspension.
To the structure of the carcass has become rigid and in the transverse direction, it must be strengthened by establishing transverse sections of the guide profile between the bearing profiles.
After marking the cross lines with a tape measure, and guided by the rules for installing drywall, select the distance between the crossbeams. Here it is important to simply calculate distances so that the edges of gypsum boards or cuts lie on the guide profile with an indent from the center of 2-5 mm, forming a seam in the center of the profile with a width not exceeding 10 mm. And sheets of plasterboard should not form long moving from the sheet to the sheet seams, installation of drywall should be carried out with a shift in both directions. Here for this and it is necessary Calculate the position of the cross bars, which do not necessarily align in a single line.
Cross sections are attached to the supporting profiles using a transverse one-level connector (crab). The connector fastens the segments with profiles of short self-tapping screws for metal, snapping inside profiles. To cut the profile in this case is required as accurately as possible, with help grinders with a cutting circle.
To add a second level ceiling, you can use a variety of ways that can not be called standard, because The only possible standard is the base of the gypsum board ceiling. Installation of a ceiling from gypsum cardboard in its kind art. But the main still have to comply with the principles.
Suspension of the second level of the guide profiles must be done with suspenders, which are fixed with screws to the guide profiles the first level. Since the second level provides for the image of a figure, its skeleton will no longer take linear forms. The end of the level needs to be strengthened by a curved profile, which is fastened over the edge to the back of the first-level guide profile. To bend profile, use metal scissors. When installing a ceiling made of plasterboard of complex construction, a combination of technologies, when the frame is already partially attached to the plasterboard, it is especially used for curvilinear cutting in ceiling levels, then the curved profile is first attached to the gypsum board to ensure rigidity, and then it is sheathed gypsum cardboard from the end on an already mounted profile.
When the frame is already ready, it is covered with plasterboard, according to the rules for installing drywall. At this stage, cables for ceiling lighting. The cavity of the ceiling from plasterboard can be insulated with mineral wool.
Drywall is attached to the frame with special self-tapping screws for gypsum board. All angles should be reinforced with plastic flexible or aluminum hard corners, which are attached to the plasterboard with a construction stapler.
Holes for spotlights are best done after the putty and ceiling painting, just the cable for the fixtures you need fasten so that you can immediately get it white through the hole made.
For the LED backlight device, in special niches, which are made with the help of plasterboard linings, you need to install a special aluminum profile for fixing the LED strip. A niche for the LED strip should be made so that it can not be looked inside standing on the floor. The width of the recess of the recess should not be more than 20 mm, it should ensure the invisibility of the LED strip and the freedom to access her to replace it.
Well, in the end, of course, the installation of ceiling skirting for beauty. A few finishing works in the form of painting and designer decorations, and the installation of a ceiling made of drywall is complete.
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